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NECTARINES


The nectarine originated in ancient China. It is botanically classified as a drupe and is akin to the peach, plum, apricot, and almond. While there is some difference in opinion among pomologists as to whether the nectarine is a fuzzless peach, a cross between a peach and a plum, or a distinct variety, there can be no question that it is one of our finest flavored, most succulent summer fruits.

Ninety-five percent of our total output is produced in California's San Joaquin Valley. Their season lasts from May through September. In December, January, February, and March we import nectarines from Chile, where they grow the same varieties as we do in California and are getting better at it each year. Despite the long distance that the Chilean nectarines have to travel, some of this fruit compares favorably with our finest California nectarines. As a rule, these imports bring top dollar because they arrive when there is a dearth of other fresh fruit in the market. The only months of the year when nectarines are not available in the market are April, October, and November.

Nectarines were not always as popular as they are today. Until the late 1940s, nectarines that were commonly available were rather drab and pale green with a red cheek. They were small in size, white in flesh, and clingstone. They were very juicy and quite tasty with a pleasant tart-sweet flavor, but had one bad flaw: They were very fragile and tender. Because they bruised very easily and had a very short shelf life, nectarines were grown on a very limited scale and shipped locally, random-packed in half-bushel baskets via unrefrigerated vehicles. Often the fruit was damaged in transit. When they arrived at the stores, decay set in quickly because of the lack of proper refrigeration.

Today nectarines are a far cry from those of yesteryear. Their flesh is golden rather than white. They no longer are fragile, have a long shelf life, and are carefully hand-picked, pre-cooked, graded by size, packed in cushion-celled cartons, and shipped to market in refrigerated trucks.

The first golden-fleshed nectarine was developed in Le Grande, California, and made its debut in 1942. More than one hundred new varieties have been developed from the original Le Grand, which was a large, not too colorful clingstone, but its claim to fame was its golden-colored flesh. The original Le Grand and a later-blooming variety called the Late Le Grand are still shipped to market, but since the newer varieties have better color and flavor and are superior in yield per acre, the Le Grands are being phased out.

Domestically grown nectarines are now in season for five months of the year. The California season is kicked off early in May with the arrival of the Armking variety. While this variety isn't nearly as good as some of the later-blooming varieties that follow, the Armkings are in great demand and are usually quite costly as a reward for their early arrival. In the month of June, far better flavored, juicier nectarines sell for half the price of the Armkings, so it may pay to wait. The last arrival of California nectarines are also not quite up to the quality of the ones in the market in June, July, and August. However, in September there are some superb nectarines from Pennsylvania and Washington State that are as good as any produced in California.

The flavor peak of season for nectarines is June and July. The varieties that arrive then are freestone and are sweeter, juicier, and more flavorful than the clingstone varieties that come to market in August and September. Although a few undersized nectarines from Florida and Georgia precede the earliest arrivals from California, they are at best only fair in quality. South Carolina, which grows some of our finest peaches, has an emerging crop.

The different varieties are not identified at the retail outlets. However, for the record, the best varieties are freestone and arrive in June and July. In order of arrival they are Early Sun Grands, Firebrights, Independence, Sun Grand, Moon Grand, Flavor Top, and Fantasia. They are replaced in mid-August by the clingstone varieties which, although they have better size, aren't quite as tasty and juicy. These include Red Grand Le Grand (the granddaddy of them all), Gold King, Late Le Grand, and September Grands.

Thanks to experimental work by growers and agricultural schools we have countless new varieties of nectarines. Of all the fruits that have been tinkered with, by far the best results have been achieved with this one. The improved nectarines capture a larger share of the summer-fruit market every year. People in the produce industry predict that by the year 2000 the nectarine will have surpassed the peach as our number one stone fruit.

As superb as the nectarines that you purchase in the peak of season are, they don't quite compare with the flavor and succulence of those that are tree-ripened. However, a tree-ripened nectarine is too fragile and delicate to ship around the corner, let alone across the country.

When shopping for nectarines, select those that are highly colored, velvet-skinned, not bruised, and unblemished. Buy them while they are quite firm and allow them a day or two to ripen at room temperature. When they are ripe, and not before, store them in the refrigerator. Chances are that if you purchase ready to eat nectarines they may be bruised. Size doesn't play too important a role as a clue to quality, but the medium-sized fruit are usually the best buy. Do avoid very small fruit because they may have been picked before reaching maturity. Oversized fruit are more apt to be bruised and nearly always carry a higher price tag.

Fantasia Firebrite Flamekist

May Grand Red Gold Red Jim

Royal Giant Spring Red Summer Grand

Early Sungrand

WHEN TO BUY: At peak: (from United States): June, July, and August At peak from Chile): February and March
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Colorful, not bruised, medium- to large-sized fruit
HOW TO STORE: Ripen at room temperature; refrigerate when ready to eat


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