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PINEAPPLES


The pineapple is a tropical fruit that is believed to have originated in Brazil and is now grown commercially in all tropical areas with a similar climate and soil. Hawaii, Taiwan, the Philippines, Mexico, and Central America are major producing areas.

The pineapple is highly prized as both a fresh and a canned fruit and canned pineapple juice is very popular. The Hawaiians were the first to can pineapples, which used to be their top industry before the advent of the jet age; now tourism is number one. Today, much of our canned pineapple is processed in Taiwan and the Philippines due to the much lower labor costs in the Far East.

Pineapples are not grown in the continental United States. They are imported from Mexico and Central America as well as Hawaii. On rare occasions a few are also flown in from Africa's Ivory Coast. Until a few years ago we received a fair supply of pineapples from Puerto Rico, but of late they have stopped shipping fresh pineapples to the mainland. Cuba too was once an important source.

There are several varieties of pineapple. Those grown in Hawaii and most of those grown in Mexico and Central America are of a variety called the Smooth Cayenne. Those grown in Cuba and Puerto Rico are usually of the Red Spanish variety. All varieties of pineapple are sweet and juicy if allowed to ripen fully before being harvested. Once the fruit is severed from the plant, it ripens no further. If picked after having reached full maturity and rushed to market without exposure to excess heat or chill, the pineapples will have a high sugar content and a juicy texture. If picked when immature, they will be woody in texture and not very sweet. If they have been chilled, they will cut black. If they have been overheated in transit, they will be very soft and possibly have spots of decay.

It wasn't until jets became common transport that Hawaiian pines became available in all of our larger cities. They arrive now at your favorite market no more than two or three days after they have been harvested. The Hawaiian pineapples that you purchase locally are no different in flavor and texture from those sold or served in Hawaii. They do, however, carry higher price tags because of the high cost of air freight.

Not all pineapples are flown in via jet from Hawaii. Most sold in the United States arrive via truck or boat from Latin America. These Latin American pines look very much like the ones from Hawaii because both areas grow the same variety. They are lower in price but usually not as sweet and juicy as the Hawaiian pineapples. As a rule, the Latin American pines are picked while still too green to reach full sugar content. At best they are pretty good, but too often they cut woody and aren't sweet. Often during the winter months they cut black. Purchasing a Latin American pineapple is a gamble and there are at least as many losers as there are winners. Purchasing a Hawaiian jet pineapple, even though it is more costly, is a far safer bet. If you select one that is firm and not bruised, it's almost a sure thing.

The two biggest shippers of Hawaiian pineapples are Castle & Cooke, which uses the Dole label, and Del Monte, which uses the Del Monte label. Castle & Cooke has the lion's share of the market. Both firms attach paper name tags to the crown of each pineapple and both firms ship (actually fly) superb fruit of comparable quality at comparable prices. These same two firms are the major shippers of Central American pineapples. Castle & Cooke (Dole) grows them in Honduras and Del Monte in Costa Rica. They also attach paper labels to the crowns of these pineapples. If a pineapple doesn't have a name tag, it is probably a product of Mexico. Unfortunately, not only do the pineapples from Hawaii and Latin America look alike, the name tags are also deceptively similar. Millions of consumers have purchased Latin American pineapples, assuming they came from Hawaii because of the look-alike name tags. If you don't read the labels carefully, you won't get the real thing.

The Dole name tag on the pineapples from Hawaii has the Dole logo, spells out ROYAL HAWAIIAN-JET FRESH, and has a picture of a 747 jet plane. Any other name tag that has the Dole logo or reads DOLE-PREMIUM but makes no mention of the source is a Honduran pineapple.

The Del Monte Hawaiian pineapples bear the familiar Del Monte name tags that also say: JET FRESH FROM HAWAII. Their Central American pineapples have look-alike labels that read DEL MONTE PINEAPPLE. Here too no mention is made of the source on the front of the label. But Costa Rica appears in small print on the back of the label.

In some areas, retailers display or advertise the Latin American fruit as Hawaiian pineapples. Although this deception is not condoned by the growers, labeling their fruit as to source could easily put an end to this practice.

One of the latest gadgets at the produce counter is a machine that removes the skin of and cores pineapples. While this may save time, it also wastes pineapple because the die cannot be adjusted to the size of each fruit. The most economical way to prepare a fresh pineapple is first to twist off the green crown. Then lay it on its side on a cutting board. Slice the pineapple as you would a loaf of bread in one-inch slices. Pare each slice as you would an apple. This method won't take much time and very little pineapple will be wasted.

When selecting pineapples, first check out the name tag to determine the source of the fruit. Then pick the largest one in the pile that is firm and shows some color. The Hawaiian growers claim that the shell color is not a clue to ripeness, and the pineapples from Hawaii with green shells are picked at maximum ripeness, but you will find that those that have a trace of gold or orange color are sweeter and juicier. Occasionally you'll see a pineapple that has a twin crown. While this extra foliage is very attractive, don't buy a double-topped pineapple. If it has two tops it will also have two cores. Pulling the leaves from the crown to determine the ripeness of a pineapple is an old wives' tale and is as valid as kicking the tire of a used car.

The flesh of a fully ripe pineapple will appear to be glossy and wet. This is a plus and not a minus. It is a sign of high sugar content and full ripeness.

Pineapples should never be stored in a place where the temperature is below 50F. Since refrigerators have a range between 34F and 38F, they are too cold for pineapples. When pines are kept under refrigeration for more than a few days, they may cut black.

WHEN TO BUY: Available year-round
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm fruit with a trace of orange color; "Hawaii" "]et Fresh" on the label
HOW TO STORE: Hawaiian pines are ready to eat when purchased; never store uncut fruit in the refrigerator

Deamer 5/97