Split / Black Gram Split / Yellow(Golden) Split
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Prior to World War 11, fresh English peas were as commonplace as green
beans in retail produce markets and usually sold at very modest prices.
After having all but disappeared from the marketplace, they are now making
a comeback, not as a commonplace staple but as a gourmet food. They are
also selling at gourmet prices.
Fresh peas lost favor during World War 11 because Rosie the Riveter, after
putting in eight to ten hours at work, had neither the time nor the energy
to shell fresh peas or lima beans or to shuck sweet corn. Fresh peas didn't
regain their popularity after the war because of the introduction of the
first frozen foods. While we always had canned peas, they weren't fully
accepted as a "fresh" vegetable because of their lack of color-closer
in hue to gray than to the desired green. I can remember restaurants in
that era adding bicarbonate of soda to restore the desired green color.
The bicarb may have brought back the color, but it killed what little flavor
the canned peas had. Frozen peas, while not nearly as tender and sweet as
the fresh ones, did have the right coloring and were accepted by most people
even though they were usually more costly than the fresh product. Ironically,
today fresh peas often cost twice as much per serving as frozen peas.
Fresh peas are available twelve months of the year and the peak of season
is May, June, and July, when peas are grown locally in most states. During
the winter months we get peas from Mexico and California. Fresh peas are
usually quite costly. Remember when figuring out the cost per serving that
at best you can get only two servings from a pound of peas.
When shopping for English peas the color is most important, and that color
is green. Look for glossy, bright green, smooth-skinned pods. Check out
the calyx-the remnant of the blossom at the stem end-and make sure it looks
fresh and green. The pods should feel velvety. Reject those peas that are
off-color (yellow) or dull and limp. Especially avoid those that feel very
hard and have dry, rough pods. If they are in a mass display at your market,
open up a pod and examine and sample the peas. If they are sweet and tender,
make the purchase. If they are hard or are starting to sprout, buy frozen
or canned peas instead.
Fresh English peas are one of our more flavorful vegetables. Their flavor
and texture is comparable to that of fresh picked sweet corn. Like corn,
as soon as they are harvested and exposed to heat, their sugar is converted
into starch. This conversion isn't quite as rapid in peas as in corn, but
it is a relentless process. As in sweet corn, peas that are overgrown, or
exposed to heat, or that aren't fresh, will eat tough and starchy. They
can be stored in a refrigerator for a few days, but the sooner they are
used the better.
Fresh, sweet English peas can be eaten raw almost as a confection. Therefore,
when you cook them use as little water as possible and keep in mind that
you can easily overcook peas but it's almost impossible to undercook them.