FoodFood InformationVegetables
The artichoke is an unusual looking vegetable that somewhat resemblesan oversized olive green pine cone with a sharp barb on the end of eachleaf. The globe artichoke is the unopened flower bud of a plant that belongsto the same genus as the thistle. Despite its rather exotic appearance ithas a mild, pleasant, nutty flavor.
Nearly all the globe artichokes produced in the United States are grownin an area along the California coast just below San Francisco. The smalltown of Castroville, California, claims the title "Artichoke Capitalof the World." This claim is grandiose because by far the world's numberone artichoke producer and consumer is Italy, followed by Spain, Franceand Greece. While the United States is an also-ran in volume of tonnageit is second to none in quality of the product.
Artichokes thrive in a climate that is neither too warm nor too sunny butone that is moist and damp. That describes the climate of the area aroundCastroville. Each morning for ten months of the year, the same thick, clammyfog that plagues nearby San Francisco rolls in from the Pacific and sheltersthe artichoke plants from direct sunlight.
Although artichokes are available year-round, the peak of season coversthe months of March, April, and May, during which time more than 50 percentof the annual crop is shipped to market. The poorest times of the year arein July and August, when the weather in the artichoke-growing area is hot,dry, and almost fog-free. These summer artichokes, which usually have apurplish hue along with the normal olive green coloring, are less tenderthan those produced in the peak of season.
While artichokes dislike hot weather, they also are affected by cold weather.When exposed to a heavy frost they die, but a light frost affects theirouter appearance without affecting the eating quality. When exposed to frost,the skin of the artichoke starts to blister and peel (not unlike sunburnon humans). The olive green color turns to bronze. The growers claim thatthese "winter kissed artichokes" are superior in flavor to themore attractive ones. This claim is strictly PR. However, while the discoloredartichokes are not more flavorful, neither are they less flavorful. As arule, these winter-kissed artichokes are offered at modest prices. If theyare firm and tight and if they look fresh and green when you peek in attheir inner leaves and at the base, ignore the discoloration and enjoy thegood flavor and low price. However, if the heart of the artichoke isn'ta light green in color, or if it's soft, flabby, and the leaves have openedup, pass it by. Note that discolored artichokes are only a good buy duringthe winter months. During the rest of the year, a discolored, bronze, orbrown artichoke is not winter kissed but probably too old.
Selecting top-quality artichokes is quite easy. When they are not freshthey will look dull, old, and tired and will be soft, open-leaved, and discolored.When they are fresh they are firm, compact, and a very attractive olive-greenin color. The other hallmarks of quality are the shape, firmness, and weightin relation to size. The perfect artichoke is round as a baseball. A blunt,round artichoke has more leaves and a bigger heart and is heavier than onethat is angular and comes to a point. As a rule, the artichokes producedin the winter and spring are rounder than those grown in the summer andfall.
Artichokes come in various sizes, ranging from as small as a plum to almostas big as a softball, including all sizes in between. However, the sizehas no bearing on the quality and flavor. A fine small artichoke is everybit as good as a very large one of comparable quality. In Italy, and inItalian neighborhoods in this country, the small artichokes are highly prized.In France the very large ones are preferred.
Artichokes discolor in the cooking process. Adding a few drops of vinegaror fresh lemon juice to the water before cooking will retard discoloration.If you want to be a purist, use a stainless steel knife to trim and cutthe artichoke, since a carbon steel knife may discolor it.
In the winter months, if the prices of the California artichokes reach veryhigh levels, some are flown in from Chile. These imports, while sellingfor top dollar, are not always of top quality.
Since artichokes are quite perishable, use them as soon as possible afterpurchasing them. However, they will hold up for at least a week withoutbreaking down if stored in the refrigerator.
WHEN TO BUY: Available year-round but at peak in March, April, and May WHATTO LOOK FOR: Firm, compact vegetables with attractive olive-green coloringthat are heavy in relation to their size
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately after purchase