FoodFood InformationVegetables
The artichoke is an unusual looking vegetable that somewhat resembles
an oversized olive green pine cone with a sharp barb on the end of each
leaf. The globe artichoke is the unopened flower bud of a plant that belongs
to the same genus as the thistle. Despite its rather exotic appearance it
has a mild, pleasant, nutty flavor.
Nearly all the globe artichokes produced in the United States are grown
in an area along the California coast just below San Francisco. The small
town of Castroville, California, claims the title "Artichoke Capital
of the World." This claim is grandiose because by far the world's number
one artichoke producer and consumer is Italy, followed by Spain, France
and Greece. While the United States is an also-ran in volume of tonnage
it is second to none in quality of the product.
Artichokes thrive in a climate that is neither too warm nor too sunny but
one that is moist and damp. That describes the climate of the area around
Castroville. Each morning for ten months of the year, the same thick, clammy
fog that plagues nearby San Francisco rolls in from the Pacific and shelters
the artichoke plants from direct sunlight.
Although artichokes are available year-round, the peak of season covers
the months of March, April, and May, during which time more than 50 percent
of the annual crop is shipped to market. The poorest times of the year are
in July and August, when the weather in the artichoke-growing area is hot,
dry, and almost fog-free. These summer artichokes, which usually have a
purplish hue along with the normal olive green coloring, are less tender
than those produced in the peak of season.
While artichokes dislike hot weather, they also are affected by cold weather.
When exposed to a heavy frost they die, but a light frost affects their
outer appearance without affecting the eating quality. When exposed to frost,
the skin of the artichoke starts to blister and peel (not unlike sunburn
on humans). The olive green color turns to bronze. The growers claim that
these "winter kissed artichokes" are superior in flavor to the
more attractive ones. This claim is strictly PR. However, while the discolored
artichokes are not more flavorful, neither are they less flavorful. As a
rule, these winter-kissed artichokes are offered at modest prices. If they
are firm and tight and if they look fresh and green when you peek in at
their inner leaves and at the base, ignore the discoloration and enjoy the
good flavor and low price. However, if the heart of the artichoke isn't
a light green in color, or if it's soft, flabby, and the leaves have opened
up, pass it by. Note that discolored artichokes are only a good buy during
the winter months. During the rest of the year, a discolored, bronze, or
brown artichoke is not winter kissed but probably too old.
Selecting top-quality artichokes is quite easy. When they are not fresh
they will look dull, old, and tired and will be soft, open-leaved, and discolored.
When they are fresh they are firm, compact, and a very attractive olive-green
in color. The other hallmarks of quality are the shape, firmness, and weight
in relation to size. The perfect artichoke is round as a baseball. A blunt,
round artichoke has more leaves and a bigger heart and is heavier than one
that is angular and comes to a point. As a rule, the artichokes produced
in the winter and spring are rounder than those grown in the summer and
fall.
Artichokes come in various sizes, ranging from as small as a plum to almost
as big as a softball, including all sizes in between. However, the size
has no bearing on the quality and flavor. A fine small artichoke is every
bit as good as a very large one of comparable quality. In Italy, and in
Italian neighborhoods in this country, the small artichokes are highly prized.
In France the very large ones are preferred.
Artichokes discolor in the cooking process. Adding a few drops of vinegar
or fresh lemon juice to the water before cooking will retard discoloration.
If you want to be a purist, use a stainless steel knife to trim and cut
the artichoke, since a carbon steel knife may discolor it.
In the winter months, if the prices of the California artichokes reach very
high levels, some are flown in from Chile. These imports, while selling
for top dollar, are not always of top quality.
Since artichokes are quite perishable, use them as soon as possible after
purchasing them. However, they will hold up for at least a week without
breaking down if stored in the refrigerator.
WHEN TO BUY: Available year-round but at peak in March, April, and May WHAT
TO LOOK FOR: Firm, compact vegetables with attractive olive-green coloring
that are heavy in relation to their size
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately after purchase