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SWEET CORN


Corn, which is native to America, is botanically related to wheat, barley,and rye. Its proper name is maize, and that is what it is called in mostof Europe. The term corn is used in the Old Testament but refers to allthe other grains and cereals that were known in that period. Corn or maizeas we know it didn't reach Europe until the sixteenth century.

There are two types of corn: field corn and sweet corn. Field corn isdried on the cob, then shucked and sold as grain. It is used to feedcattle and hogs. It is also ground into meal (flour), and pressed to yieldoil. Sweet corn is harvested while it is young and tender and isused as a fresh vegetable. It is also frozen or packed in tins.

While sweet corn on the cob is probably one of the best-loved vegetablesin North America, it isn't as popular in Europe or the rest of the world.The flavor of no other fresh vegetable is as perishable as that ofcorn. The speed with which it is transported from the field to the pot ofboiling water determines the flavor and the texture of the ear of corn.Corn on the cob, like fresh lobster, has to be cooked while it is stillalive.

Corn is at its tastiest, sweetest, juiciest, and most tender the instantit is severed from the stalk in the cornfield. At the moment of separationthe ear starts to heat up and dehydrate and the sugar in the kernels startsto change into starch. After about forty-eight hours of heat and dehydration,the once sweet and juicy kernels become dry and starchy. This chemical changeis relentless; however, it can be checked, but not halted, by pre-coolingand constant refrigeration. In rural areas, where every home has some sweetcorn growing in its backyard, it is claimed that first the water in thepot is brought to a boil and then the corn is picked.

Corn can have either yellow or white kernels or a combination of the two.But the color is not a clue to the flavor. Only the freshness of the eardetermines that flavor. Whether it was grown on a plush estate or on thewrong side of the tracks, the bottom line is how long it took to get thecorn from the field to the kitchen. Corn that is used the day it is pickedwill be superb. If it is a few days old and has been pre-cooled and storedunder constant refrigeration, it will still be quite good. This explainswhy some, not all, of the corn grown in Florida and California in midwinterand shipped north is of acceptable quality. However, if the corn has beenneglected and allowed to heat up and dehydrate, even if it is at the peakof season, the corn will be hard and dry.

When shopping for corn, look for green (not brown or discolored) outer husksand plump, firm kernels. If the kernels have dimples, the corn is too oldto enjoy and will be tough and dry. Never purchase corn if the ear feelshot to the touch. Even corn that is picked in 90-degree weather will feelcool to the touch. Once the ear has started to heat up, it cannot be checked,even if refrigerated.

The ability to purchase freshly picked corn will depend on your geographicallocation. If you live in a big city, your chances are almost nil-at bestyou'll be able to purchase only fair corn. If you live in the suburbs, you'llhave a fighting chance. Most suburbs have road stands that specialize infreshly picked corn. Unfortunately, most suburban supermarkets are suppliedby their own warehouses and offer the same poor quality corn as the bigcity markets.

WHEN TO BUY: Available year-round depending on geographical location
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Freshly picked ears with plump kernels that are cool tothe touch
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately after purchase

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