FoodFood InformationVegetables
Corn, which is native to America, is botanically related to wheat, barley,
and rye. Its proper name is maize, and that is what it is called in most
of Europe. The term corn is used in the Old Testament but refers to all
the other grains and cereals that were known in that period. Corn or maize
as we know it didn't reach Europe until the sixteenth century.
There are two types of corn: field corn and sweet corn. Field corn is
dried on the cob, then shucked and sold as grain. It is used to feed
cattle and hogs. It is also ground into meal (flour), and pressed to yield
oil. Sweet corn is harvested while it is young and tender and is
used as a fresh vegetable. It is also frozen or packed in tins.
While sweet corn on the cob is probably one of the best-loved vegetables
in North America, it isn't as popular in Europe or the rest of the world.
The flavor of no other fresh vegetable is as perishable as that of
corn. The speed with which it is transported from the field to the pot of
boiling water determines the flavor and the texture of the ear of corn.
Corn on the cob, like fresh lobster, has to be cooked while it is still
alive.
Corn is at its tastiest, sweetest, juiciest, and most tender the instant
it is severed from the stalk in the cornfield. At the moment of separation
the ear starts to heat up and dehydrate and the sugar in the kernels starts
to change into starch. After about forty-eight hours of heat and dehydration,
the once sweet and juicy kernels become dry and starchy. This chemical change
is relentless; however, it can be checked, but not halted, by pre-cooling
and constant refrigeration. In rural areas, where every home has some sweet
corn growing in its backyard, it is claimed that first the water in the
pot is brought to a boil and then the corn is picked.
Corn can have either yellow or white kernels or a combination of the two.
But the color is not a clue to the flavor. Only the freshness of the ear
determines that flavor. Whether it was grown on a plush estate or on the
wrong side of the tracks, the bottom line is how long it took to get the
corn from the field to the kitchen. Corn that is used the day it is picked
will be superb. If it is a few days old and has been pre-cooled and stored
under constant refrigeration, it will still be quite good. This explains
why some, not all, of the corn grown in Florida and California in midwinter
and shipped north is of acceptable quality. However, if the corn has been
neglected and allowed to heat up and dehydrate, even if it is at the peak
of season, the corn will be hard and dry.
When shopping for corn, look for green (not brown or discolored) outer husks
and plump, firm kernels. If the kernels have dimples, the corn is too old
to enjoy and will be tough and dry. Never purchase corn if the ear feels
hot to the touch. Even corn that is picked in 90-degree weather will feel
cool to the touch. Once the ear has started to heat up, it cannot be checked,
even if refrigerated.
The ability to purchase freshly picked corn will depend on your geographical
location. If you live in a big city, your chances are almost nil-at best
you'll be able to purchase only fair corn. If you live in the suburbs, you'll
have a fighting chance. Most suburbs have road stands that specialize in
freshly picked corn. Unfortunately, most suburban supermarkets are supplied
by their own warehouses and offer the same poor quality corn as the big
city markets.
WHEN TO BUY: Available year-round depending on geographical location
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Freshly picked ears with plump kernels that are cool to
the touch
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately after purchase
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