The past decade has seen an explosion of interest in Australia for wines
that Americans like, too: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. These two types,
plus Australia's red wine specialty, Shiraz, make up the bulk of Down Under
exports to the United States. Riesling is big in Australia itself, where
it has long been the quaffing white wine of choice, but few brands bother
to export the stuff in this direction.
Australia, like America, labels its best wines with varietal names. The
rules are similar, in that varietal wines are made entirely or mostly from
the single grape variety named on the front label. Often more than one variety
is named, by order of amount: Shiraz-Cabernet has more Shiraz in it and
Cabernet-Shiraz has more Cabernet.
As anywhere else, the narrower and more prestigious the geographical appellation,
the higher the price of the wine. As a result, most value-oriented wines
carry broad appellations such as "South Eastern Australia," which
encompasses a region nearly 600 miles wide, or simply "Australia."
Australian vineyards tend to produce grapes with prominent fruit flavors
that bring a certain charm even to lesser wines. Aussie winemakers are also
brilliant at blending wines from various regions and giving them judicious
cellar treatments to achieve a consistent style. Chardonnays such as Lindemans
Bin 65 and Yalumba Oxford Landing are perennial Best Buys.
The best Chardonnays, such as Rosemount Roxburgh and Petaluma, can hold
their own against the best from Burgundy and California. Other than Chardonnay,
Sémillon is the white variety Aussies prize most, for the herbal,
tobacco and lanolin flavors that sneak in around the fruit. At lower prices,
however, we recommend their Sémillon blended either with Sauvignon
Blanc or Chardonnay. The few Rieslings that make it across the Pacific are
worth trying, too.
Among the reds, top honors go to Shiraz, which is the Australian term for
Syrah, the prime grape variety of the northern Rhône. Down Under versions
tend to emphasize rich, mouth-filling fruit flavors in chewy, often sumptuous
textures and structures. Penfolds Grange is justly world famous, and was
chosen as Wine Spectator 1995 Wine of the Year. The list of other worthy
Shirazes seems to double every year.
The best red wine values are often Cabernet-Shiraz blends, which tend to
cost less than either varietal sold separately. Aussie Shirazes in the under-$10
range tend to spill over with delicious fruit. The Cabernets edge toward
supple drinkability as well. The blends, though less distinctive, are usually
sturdy wines that should be drunk young.
Australia makes some of the best dessert wines in the world, including tawny
Ports that match up very well with Portuguese bottlings at several times
their prices. And the fortified Muscats may not be fashionable, but they
are delicious.
DD 5/97