WineRegionsOld WorldFranceBordeaux
THE CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETIES OF BORDEAUX
REDS
The worldwide imitation of the Bordeaux style has created a widespread cultivation
of the region's Cabernet sauvignon vine, resulting in a cluster of international
"clarets". However, Cabernet sauvignon actually represents only
18 per cent of the vines cultivated in Bordeaux whereas the Merlot, generally
considered the- second variety, accounts for more than 32 per cent. Even
on the Medoc's hallowed ground, Cabernet's mecca, 40 per cent of the vines
grown are Merlot. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild contains no less than 90 per
cent Cabernet sauvignon, but Chateau Petrus, one of the most expensive wines
in the world, contains 95 per cent Merlot, without a drop of Cabernet sauvignon.
Less used, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec, round out the fivesome
known as the Bordeaux blend. It is the combination of these American grown
versions known as a "Meritage." The Bordeaux wines the extact
combination of these varietals varries from wine to wine and year to year.
But there have developed some percentages of blends within each Bordeaux
region that the consummer can depend on to a certain degree.
Each grape variety makes its own contribution to a particular wine. The
Cabernet sauvignon is the most complex and distinctive of all Bordeaux
grapes. It has a firm tannic structure, yet with time reveals a powerful,
rich and long lasting flavor. Wines from this grape can have great finesse;
their bouquets often possess a "blackcurrant" or violets character.
The Cabernet franc has similar characteristics, But may also have
a leafy, sappy or earthy taste depending on where it is cultivated. It does,
however, shine through as the superior variety when grown in St. Emilion
and Pomerol and can compete on even terms with its famous cousin in parts
of Graves. Merlot is soft silky and sometimes opulent. It is a grape
that charms, and can make wines with lots of juicy rich and spicy fruit.
The Petit verdot is a late ripener with a naturally high acidity,
while the Malbec has a thick skin that is rich in color pigments.
Small amounts of these last two varieties were traditionally used to correct
the color and acidity of a blend. Their cultivation has been on the decrease
for the last twenty years clue to various modern techniques of viticulture
and vinification.
WHITES
Bordeaux is Semillon's most important region in the world. Susceptible
to "noble rot", the disease responsible for classic Sauternes
and Barsac, it is arguably the world's greatest sweet wine grape. Sauvignon
blanc plays the supporting role in the production of sweet wines (around
20% of blend),and is more important in the production of dry wines. Many
of the less expensive dry white wines are pure Sauvignon blanc. Sauvingnon
blanc grapes add backbone to the rich opulent Semillon, which on its own
can be "flabby." Semillon adds softness to a dry white made with
Sauvingnon.
The Semillon grape provides a wine naturally rich in flavor and high in
alcohol. It makes succulent sweet wines capable of great longevity, hut
its intrinsically low acidity is unsuitable for dry wines. In exceptional
circumstances the highest quality Semillon does make a fine dry white wine-if
matured in new oak. This enhances the aromatic character of the wine and
gives it a firm structure without which it would be too "fat"
and "flabby". The Sauvignon blanc in Bordeaux is softer and easier
to drink, than the Sauvignons of the Loire vineyards of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume.
In particularily does not have the pronounced aromatics of the Loire Sauvignons,
but the varietal character is more pronounced now than it used to be a few
years ago. Early harvesting, pre fermentation maceration on the grape skins
to draw out the aromatics, and longer, cooler fermentation in stainless
steel, have all combined to produce a far more interesting dry white wine.