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WINES OF THE LOIRE


The Loire Valley

The Loire valley follows the Loire river in a kind of crescent shape from the center of France to the Atlantic coast. The wines of the Loire, are crisp whites on both ends, Muscadet and Sauvignon Blanc, with richer wines, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, in the middle.

From it's source in the Cevennes Mountains, the Loire flows through about 1000 kilometers (625 miles) and twelve departements of green, peaceful countryside, ancient towns and fine chateaux before reaching the Atlantic. It is the longest river in France, and the variations in soil, climate and grape varieties found along its banks and those of its tributaries are reflected in the wide range of wines grown in the four major wine-producing districts. Running east from the Bay of Biscay, the districts are Nantes-Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and the Central Vineyards.

Red, white and rose, still, petillant and fully sparkling, some sixty different appellations ranging in style from bone-dry to intensely sweet, are strung out across half of France. The two crisp white wines at either end of the Loire are the Muscadet wines of Nantes and the Sauvignon wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume in the Central Vineyards, while the fuller wines of all types are to be found in the central districts of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine: Anjou Rose, sparkling Saumur and Vouvray, the rich, sweet wines of Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume in the Coteaux du Layon , and the red wines of Bourgeuil, Chinon and Champigny

THE LOIRE'S MOST IMPORTANT GRAPE

The Chenin blanc grape produces four distinctly different styles of wine: dry, semi-sweet, sweet and sparkling. This is due to traditional practices that have been forced on growers by the vagaries of climate. This grape has abundant natural acidity and, if it receives enough sun, a high sugar content. But the Loire is considered a northern area in viticultural terms, and the wine grower must contend with late frosts, cold winds and variable summers. Given a sunny year, the grower's natural inclination is to make the richest wine possible with this sweet and tangy grape, but in many vintages, only a medium or a dry style can be achieved. Apart from exceptions like Savennieres, dry Chenin blanc wines are all too often thin, harsh and acidic.

These wines do little to enhance the reputation of the Loire, but they do have similar characteristics to the wines of Champagne in that they are disappointing when still, yet glamorous when sparkling. It is little wonder then, that as the Champagne trade rapidly evolved in the nineteenth century so the seeds of a sparkling wine industry were sown in Saumur, and today the Loire boasts the largest such market outside of Champagne itself.