WineRegionsOld WorldFranceLoire
THE MUSCADET GRAPE AND ITS WINES
Exactly when the Muscadet grape, also known as the Melon de Bourgogne andthe Gamay blanc, was first planted in the area is uncertain. There is aplaque at Chateau de la Cassemichere that claims that the first Muscadetwine was transplanted there from Burgundy in 1740, but Pierre Galet, thefamous ampelograltler (vine botanist), tells us that "following theterrible winter of 1709, Louis XlV ordered that the replanting of the frozenvineyards of Loire Atlantique be with Muscadet blanc".
The wine produced in the Muscadet grape is neutral in flavor and bears nohint of the muskiness its name implies. Perhaps it is the simplest, cleanestflavored wine in the world. It must be harvested early to preserve acidity,and yet, in doing so, the grower runs the risk of making a wine that lacksfruit. But if the wine is left in contact with its sediment and bottledsur lie, off the lees - the operation enhances the fruit, adds ayeasty dimension of depth and, by retaining more of the carbonic gas createdduring fermentation, imparts a certain liveliness and freshness. A Muscadetsur lie must remain in contact with its sediment for one winter,and may not he bottled before February 15 following the harvest. It musthe bottled directly off its lees, and must not be racked or filtered. Somegrowers would like the term sur lie applied only to wines kept inwooden barrels, arguing that the effect of keeping a wine in contact withits lees in huge vats is negligible.
