WineRegionsOld WorldSpain
Spain has more land under vines than any other country, though she hasonly one third of Italy's production. This disparity represents the oldSpain, old techniques, and a country held together by a harsh Dictator.The new Spain, though still discovering their post Franco cultures, is startingto look north and west towards a more economic developed life. Though mostof Spain's wines are still produced in their traditional styles (often harshand seemly oxidized to American palates), the Spanish wine industry hasgradually clarified its production, improved its quality and began experimentingwith the more successful grapes and techniques of the rest of the world.The most successful wines in every price category are red, primarily thosemade from the Tempranillo grape, which dominates the regions of Rioja,Ribera del Duero, Navarra and Toro. Cabernet Sauvignon has begun to makean appearance, often blended with Tempranillo, while obscure local grapevarieties contribute to the distinctive character of wines from Penedès,Priorato and Somontano. Spain's wine laws are similar to those of the Frenchappellation system, with the best vineyard regions delimited and regulatedin 52 Denominacíons.
Most bodegas (wineries) offer reds in four quality levels, whichcorrespond to the amount of aging (in wooden barrels or in bottle) the winesreceive before release. In order of increasing age (and price), they are:sin crianza, crianza, reserva and gran reserva. Wines labeled"sin crianza" are released in the year after harvest; often made,at least in part, through the carbonic maceration method also responsiblefor Beaujolais Nouveau, they are light and rarely leave Spain. Much of thisstyle of wine comes from the plains of La Mancha, with most of thesewines still made in huge earthenware pots, "tinajas." The winestend to get fruitier as you go east from La Mancha, to the Requena andUtel regions in Valencia. For the best values and the freshest fruit,look for crianza and reserva red wines, which spend at least one year agingin oak barrels. Gran reservas must spend two years (and often stay muchlonger) in oak, and are commonly released only five to seven years afterharvest. Even though they are intended to be the very best wines of theirvintage, they may be overly mature for American tastes.
The 1990 and '91 vintages are the best currently on the market, notablyfrom Rioja and Ribera del Duero. However, reservas and especially gran reservasfrom the strong 1985 and 1986 vintages in these regions are worth seekingout, and both 1994 and '95 vintages look promising. Rioja's modernwine industry emerged under the guidance of Bordeaux wine makers fleeingthe ruin of the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century. Their legaciesinclude the practice of blending different grape varieties and aging thewine in small oak barrels. However, Rioja is based predominately on thelocal Tempranillo grape (with Garnacha as a secondary component used toadd body and alcohol; Mazuelo and Graziano are also authorized), and thebarrels are generally made from American rather than French oak, so theresulting wines have a distinctive character all their own. TraditionalRiojas emphasize balance and elegance; top producers in this style includeCUNE, La Rioja Alta and Vina Tondonia. Responding to international demandfor rounder, fruitier wines, several bodegas have turned to new viticulturaltechniques, French oak and shorter barrel aging to make wines with moreconcentration. Leaders in this modern style include Bodegas Martinez Bujanda,Contino and Bodegas Breton. Rioja's two oldest wineries, Marquésde Riscal and Marqués de Murrieta, are still leaders, making outstandingwines that manage to incorporate benefits of both schools.
Despite the fame and depth of Rioja's wine tradition, tastings in the pastfew years suggest that Spain's most exciting red wines are now being madein Ribera del Duero, located about 100 miles to the southwest. Thoughgranted a DO only in 1982, Ribera has benefited from two powerful dynamos:Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Spain's most prestigious winery, founded in 1846,and Alejandro Fernandez, an eccentric visionary whose Tinto Pesquera, madeonly since 1972, has drawn international attention to the region. Otherreliable producers in the region include Bodegas Ismael Arroyo, Ibernobleand Alion, a new venture from Vega Sicilia. Outside of Rioja and Jerez (sherry),the rest of Spain is dominated by the large bodegas. Jerez is the one regionwhich is very organized and efficient with quality sherries produced inlarge, medium and small bodegas. Rioja has a variety of producers thoughmost are linked by cooperative relationships and export is only allowedby the bigger houses, 500 minimum barrique (wood barrels) stock.
Notable reds from other regions include the robust Navarras fromBodegas Julian Chivite, the Torres winery's classic Mas La Plana, a CabernetSauvignon from Penedès and René Barbier's Priorato Clos Mogador,an inky giant made from intensely concentrated Garnacha grapes. But theseonly scratch the surface; Spain produces a wealth of distinctive red wines,and most sell for well under $20.
Sparkling wines, made by the classic Champagne method but using indigenousgrapes, also provide good value. Called "cava," these come primarilyfrom the Penedès region, near Barcelona. The non-vintage cuvéesoffer the best value and a hearty, straightforward taste perfect for partiesor punches.
Whites are hit or miss in Spain. White Riojas and Ruedas, made largelyfrom Viura, are fresh and clean, while reservas, aged in American oak, arevoluptuous and herb-scented. Chardonnay and other varietal wines have fewadvantages over competitors from other countries, but a few indigenous grapesmake distinctive wines from northern regions such as Penedès andGalicia. White wines made from the Albarino grape in the northwest regionof Rias Baixas offer an appealing mix of ripe fruit and refreshing acidity.