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RASPBERRIES


Wild raspberries, which once flourished throughout North America, have all but disappeared. Now, only cultivated raspberries are available in limited supply and they are usually very costly.

The raspberry and its cousin the blackberry are bramble fruits and are members of the rose family. But unlike blackberries, which are fairly firm and solid, raspberries are fragile and hollow. The structure of the raspberry makes it almost too delicate to handle and it has to be picked and packaged with utmost care to prevent crushing or bruising. Raspberries are usually marketed in shallow half-pint containers and have to be rushed to market. At best they have a shelf life of a day or two after they reach the retail market. This need for extra care assures that raspberries always carry a high price tag.

If you live north of the Mason-Dixon Line, you have access to native-grown raspberries three to four weeks each year and they probably sell at moderate prices. When the locally grown raspberries are not available in the Midwest and Northeast, these areas are supplied with raspberries flown in from California. California berries are available throughout the summer months and in early fall. In late fall they are joined by raspberries from our Pacific Northwest and British Columbia.

There are three schools of thought as to desirability of fresh raspberries. Most people can take them or leave them but usually leave them because of the high price tags. Some dislike them because of their seeds. However, those who adore their delicate flavor are willing to pay a premium price for fresh raspberries. In New York City in mid-winter they can sell for as much as seven to eight dollars per half-pint (about two servings).

While 99 percent of commercially grown raspberries are the traditional red color, there are also some black-, purple-, and apricot-colored raspberries. These unusual-colored berries are similar in flavor and texture to the more familiar red ones. The off-colored raspberries are usually grown in home gardens and are seldom sold in retail food stores (though often popular at farmer markets).

Since the raspberry is both the most costly and the most fragile berry, special care should be used when making purchases. Avoid those that are soft, wet, or show any trace of mildew. If the raspberries are stuck together or if there is any trace of stain or leakage at the bottom of the half-pint container, you'll probably be able to salvage less than half the berries. Don't assume that a high price tag will be accompanied by high quality. If the raspberries aren't firm, colorful, and dry, pass them by.

Raspberries are as perishable as sweet cream. Ideally they should be used on the day of purchase. If not, store them under constant refrigeration.


WHEN TO BUY: At peak June, July, and August
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, dry, colorful fruit
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately


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