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RASPBERRIES


Wild raspberries, which once flourished throughout North America, haveall but disappeared. Now, only cultivated raspberries are available in limitedsupply and they are usually very costly.

The raspberry and its cousin the blackberry are bramble fruits and are membersof the rose family. But unlike blackberries, which are fairly firm and solid,raspberries are fragile and hollow. The structure of the raspberry makesit almost too delicate to handle and it has to be picked and packaged withutmost care to prevent crushing or bruising. Raspberries are usually marketedin shallow half-pint containers and have to be rushed to market. At bestthey have a shelf life of a day or two after they reach the retail market.This need for extra care assures that raspberries always carry a high pricetag.

If you live north of the Mason-Dixon Line, you have access to native-grownraspberries three to four weeks each year and they probably sell at moderateprices. When the locally grown raspberries are not available in the Midwestand Northeast, these areas are supplied with raspberries flown in from California.California berries are available throughout the summer months and in earlyfall. In late fall they are joined by raspberries from our Pacific Northwestand British Columbia.

There are three schools of thought as to desirability of fresh raspberries.Most people can take them or leave them but usually leave them because ofthe high price tags. Some dislike them because of their seeds. However,those who adore their delicate flavor are willing to pay a premium pricefor fresh raspberries. In New York City in mid-winter they can sell foras much as seven to eight dollars per half-pint (about two servings).

While 99 percent of commercially grown raspberries are the traditional redcolor, there are also some black-, purple-, and apricot-colored raspberries.These unusual-colored berries are similar in flavor and texture to the morefamiliar red ones. The off-colored raspberries are usually grown in homegardens and are seldom sold in retail food stores (though often popularat farmer markets).

Since the raspberry is both the most costly and the most fragile berry,special care should be used when making purchases. Avoid those that aresoft, wet, or show any trace of mildew. If the raspberries are stuck togetheror if there is any trace of stain or leakage at the bottom of the half-pintcontainer, you'll probably be able to salvage less than half the berries.Don't assume that a high price tag will be accompanied by high quality.If the raspberries aren't firm, colorful, and dry, pass them by.

Raspberries are as perishable as sweet cream. Ideally they should be usedon the day of purchase. If not, store them under constant refrigeration.


WHEN TO BUY: At peak June, July, and August
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, dry, colorful fruit
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately


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