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STRAWBERRIES


Wild strawberries, which are also known as wood strawberries, have allbut disappeared in the United States, though they are still commerciallycultivated on a small scale in the Alpine areas of Europe and in seasonthey grace the tables of fine restaurants in France. The tiny wild berriesare long on flavor and fragrance.

The commercially grown strawberry we find in our retail stores are muchlarger and more abundant than the wild strawberries, but they aren't quiteas fragrant and flavorful. However, we are continually producing new improvedvarieties and it is probably only a matter of time before we perfect strawberriesthat are as big as golf balls and will match the aroma and the taste ofthe wild berries.

Not only are today's berries superior to those that were available twentyor thirty years ago, they are in season for much longer periods of time.In areas north of the Mason-Dixon Line, the strawberry season once lastedonly from early spring to the Fourth of July. Today, fine strawberries areavailable twelve months of the year.

Strawberries are grown in all fifty states, including Alaska. In most areasthe strawberry season is about three months in duration. However, Californiastrawberries are in season eleven months of the year and are even availablein very limited supply during the month of December.

California is strawberry country. They grow more strawberries than anywhereelse in the world and each year they add to the acreage used to grow theberries. With ideal climate and soil conditions, California produces morethan 75 percent of the total United States crop. The berries thrive in sunny,coastal regions, where the days are warm but not torrid and the nights arecool and damp. California gets a tremendous yield per acre, seven timesthe average yield of the rest of the strawberry-growing areas in the country.They not only supply most of the North American market but also export toall the major cities of the world. In 1984 the size of the crop was a mind-boggling,record breaking 560 million pounds, almost a 50 percent increase over theprevious year.

While strawberries are shipped eleven months of the year, the peak of theirseason is from April 15 to July 15. During that period the finest berriesof the year usually sell at the lowest prices of the year.

Florida is a very distant second to California in total production, andeven at their best the Florida berries are no match for the best berriesfrom California. However, beginning in December, Florida strawberries takeup the slack for about six weeks, until the new crop of California berriescomes on line. During the winter months we also import strawberries fromNew Zealand, Israel, and Mexico.

The quality of those berries air-freighted from New Zealand and Israel isquite good, but they are usually expensive. The Mexican berries arrive viatruck and as a rule do not win any blue ribbons; however, they are usuallynot very costly.

The expensive, imported, out-of-season strawberries, even though they costfive dollars or more per pint, aren't nearly as good as the marvelous Californiaberries that sell for well under a dollar a pint during May and June.

Select firm, dry, shapely, glossy, dark red berries that have fresh greencaps. Strawberries ripen no further after harvest, what you see is whatyou get. Fine berries that meet the above criteria, if stored under refrigeration,can last for about a week without too much wear and tear. However, it iswiser to use them as soon as possible after purchase to enjoy top flavorand nutritional value.

Avoid strawberries (or any other berries) that are soft, wet, or show anytrace of mildew. Also avoid those that are pale in color or have white shoulders.Until about ten years ago, the smaller- and medium-sized strawberries weremore flavorful than the larger, usually more costly, berries. The biggerberries used to be hollow and less juicy. However, today's new large varietieshave both size and flavor. Occasionally you may see very large strawberrieswith string like stems attached. These stem berries are a gourmet item thatis highly overpriced. Unless you want these berries to dip in melted chocolate,or even in powdered sugar, at a dinner party, you can purchase equal oreven better strawberries at less than half the price.

Chandler Hiedi Pajaro

White Fraises des Bois Red

WHEN TO BUY: At peak April, May, and June
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, dry, dark red berries; size has little bearing onquality
HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate immediately


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