Salu2food
Liquor & Spirits
Brandy
French
ABOUT COGNAC
OK, by now I'm sure you have all heard this cliche: All cognac is brandy,
but not all brandy is cognac. In fact, the only brandy in the world that
may legally be labeled "cognac", comes from the Cognac region
in west-central France. The geographical limits of the relatively small
area in which cognac can be made were set by the French govt. in 1909. No
other place in the world may use the word cognac on its brandy products.
Brandy is defined as the distillate from the process of distilling wine.
Cognac and fine brandy are generally made from grapes (95%), however, other
fruit brandies exist too. Ten or so different white grapes can be legally
used for cognac, but Ugni Blanc, Columbard and /Picpoul/ are the main varietals.
The grape-growing area of the cognac region is subdivided into six zones,
based mainly on soil and climate conditions: Borderies, Bois Ordinaire,
Fin Bois, Bon Bois, Petite Champagne and Grande Champagne districts. You
will never see the first four areas on a label;, they produce inferior products.
Petite and Grande Champagne are the most highly regarded districts, with
Grande Champagne being the best. The use of the word champagne, in Petite
and Grande Champagne, has nothing to do with the sparkling wine; it comes
from the word champ meaning field.
Cognac goes through two distillations and, by law, only pot
stills may be used (a continuous still is used in Armagnac). This is
also referred to as Alambic Distillation. The first distillation, called
the broullis, results in a rank. murky spirit with approximately 28% alcohol
content. The heart of the second distillation (the head and tail are set
aside to be redistilled) is called Bonne chauffe.. It emerges from the still
at 140 proof, and like all newly made spirits, is colorless and raw. Oak
casks are mandatory At one time, all of the wood came from the nearby forest
of Limousin, but as Limousin oak became scarcer, it is being supplemented
with lumber from Troncais. Limousin oak is a finer, lighter oak, that imparts
a sharp vanilla flavor.
Much concern is given to the oak casks used for aging, for they contribute
much to the flavors and style of the desired cognac. Age of the oak is a
factor, as new oak imparts more taste to the spirit than does aged wood.
A young cognac usually spends some time in new cooperage but within a year
it is transferred to older barrels. Lesser grades of cognac, which are to
be bottled fairly young, are given more time in new wood so that flavors
develop rather quickly. In fact. it is not unknown for oak chips, /e boise,,
to be added to the barrel to hasten the effect of the wood. On the other
hand, the more promising distillates are soon moved into seasoned oak to
mature more slowly. Houses producing lighter, more delicate, and softer
cognacs almost always do their aging in used barrels.
The most important influence in the final cognac product comes from the
blending and aging The virtuosos of cognac are the master blenders, and
their skills - passed from generation to generation - maybe the most important
ingredient in the bottle. The major cognac houses maintain huge inventories
from different zones, vineyards, and years, including vintages well over
a century old. The rarities are stored in glass demijohns, not oak, to prevent
further evaporation called the "angel's share" by the cognacais)
and excessive woodiness. It is the master blenders job to fashion this kaleidoscope
of flavors and aromas into a harmonious blend.
The cognac industry eventually settled on the following general guidelines
in their use of stars, letters, or names on labels:
- Three stars, or the letters VS or VSP (Very Special, Very Special Pale)
indicate that the minimum age for the youngest cognac in the blend is 2
yrs. In practice, the average age is 3 to 5 yrs.
- The letters VSOP and VO (Very Superior Old Pale, Very Old) indicate a
minimum age of 4 yrs for the youngest cognac with an average age between
10 and 15 yrs.
- Cognacs labeled with special names such as Napoleon, Cordon Bleu, Triomphe,
Vielle Reserve, X.O. (Extra Old), Anniversaire, etc., have a minimum age
of 6 yrs for the youngest brandy, but in fact run an average age of upwards
of 20 yrs (when a cognac is labeled 'Napoleon. It refers to the emperors
devotion to the brandy and nothing else).
- The words Grande Champagne or Grande Fine indicate that all of the grapes
came from the premier growing district, Grande Champagne. Fine Champagne
means that the grapes were grown in the top two districts, Petite and Grande
Champagne, with more than half coming from the Grande Champagne district.
VS - straightforward and likable, the woodsy and caramel notes are harmonious
but rather simple, and its soft enough to go down smooth. Good quality.
Remy Martin VSOP - vivid, vibrant and flavorful. Enticing aromas of orange
and clove lead to a silky, spicy palate with citrus and roasted nut flavors.
Not big, but extremely elegant . A Fine Champagne blend. Outstanding quality,
Remy is one of the most well-known and respected cognac houses in France.
Martell VSOP Medallion - a deep sweet spirit
that is generous, from the almost reddish color. through the creme brulee
aroma, to the honey and walnut flavors. Very good quality.
Delamain Vesper - the average age of brandies in this cognac are 35-45 yrs.
From the Grande Champagne district, an outstanding cognac from one of the
oldest, smallest and last remaining independent family owned and operated
firms in the Cognac region. Complex, intense, rich, full bodied and silky
with a beautiful balance of sweet plum and smoky almond flavors, round.
harmonious and long. In a league of its own - the best (and best value)
on the Tarpy's List.
Hennessy XO - average age of brandies are 20 yrs old. Very aromatic with
heather and honey notes, richly flavored with prunes and walnuts. The long
finish, with orange, caramel and spice notes, throws you back to the glass.
A Fine Champagne blend. Outstanding quality.